Pops’ Rome Travel Guide, Piazza Navona

One of my favorite works of Bernini outside of the Borghese Gallery is in the Piazza Novona.  Piazza Navona is a city square in Rome. It is built on the site of the Stadium of Domitian, built in 1st century AD, and follows the form of the open space of the stadium. The Piazza Navona is in the shape of an oval track. The ancient Romans came there to watch the agones ("games"), and hence it was known as "Circus Agonalis" ("competition arena"). It is believed that over time the name changed to in avone to navone and eventually to navona.

It features important sculptural and architectural creations: in the center stands the famous Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi or Fountain of the Four Rivers (1651) by Bernini, topped by the Obelisk of Domitian, brought here in pieces from the Circus of Maxentius; the church of Sant’ Agnese in Agone by Borromini, Rainaldi, and others; and the Pamphili palace, also by Rainaldi, that accommodates the long gallery designed by Borromini and frescoed by Pietro da Cortona.

Piazza Navona has two additional fountains: at the southern end is the Fontana del Moro with a basin and four Tritons sculpted by Giacomo della Porta (1575) to which, in 1673, Bernini added a statue of a Moor, or African, wrestling with a dolphin, and at the northern end is the Fountain of Neptune (1574) created by Giacomo della Porta. The statue of Neptune in the northern fountain, the work of Antonio Della Bitta, was added in 1878 to make that fountain more symmetrical with La Fontana del Moro in the south.

At the southwest end of the piazza is the ancient 'speaking' statue of Pasquino. Erected in 1501, Romans could leave lampoons or derogatory social commentary attached to the statue.

Now the piazza is a place for restaurants which attract tourists which in turn attract street vendors and street artists. Some people recommend staying away because it is too touristy but then you would miss the artwork and architecture in the piazza. I would recommend ignoring the touristy aspect and walk the piazza, take in the history and beauty of the piazza then grab a drink or eat at one of the many restaurants there, and sit outside if the weather is nice.

When you look at Fountain of the Four Rivers take a close look at the faces on the fountain. When I had the tour with the two priests they told me that Bernini and the artist that was commissioned to do the Sant’ Agnese in Agone had a feud going on at the time. If you look at the stature at the top of the church you will see that she is looking away from the fountain to signify that the fountain was not worth her looking at. Then look at the faces of the fountain. One is shielding his eyes to signify that he can’t look at something as hideous as the church. We never would have known this if not for the priests. It was nice to know some of the folklore even if it may have been embellished.

Next I will talk about the sights around the Piazza.