Pops’ Denmark Travel Guide – Part 2, Falster

Falster is another one of the islands of Denmark connected by a series of bridges from Copenhagen. There are two bridges connecting to Lolland: the Guldborgsund Bridge at the northern end of the strait and the Frederick IX Bridge at Nykøbing Falster. There is also a tunnel between the islands on E47 that you can take from Copenhagen to Germany using the ferry at Rodby on Lolland.

 

 

 

With its marinas, sandy beaches and cycle tracks, Falster attracts tourists who wish to have relaxing holidays in unspoiled surroundings. One of the most popular resorts is Marielyst on the east coast. Marielyst is a typical beach city with a beautiful beach that seems to go for ever. The beach is one of the best I went to in Denmark. In town are a lot of restaurants and bars that offer live entertainment. You can also find camp grounds in and around the city. Also, close to Marielyst is an international sand castle contest on the beach. Nykøbing offers a number of attractions including its old-town atmosphere with narrow streets. Of particular interest are the Middle Ages Center, and the 15th century Abbey Church (Klosterkirke). Gedser is another port city and like Rodby has a ferry that will take you to Germany. Across the Guldborgsund Bridge from Lolland in Falster are ruins from the Middle Ages. On the other side of Falster is the Faro Bridge which is E47 that will take you to Copenhagen.

Pops’ Denmark Travel Guide – Part 1, Lolland, Where My Grandfather Came From

Denmark is a peninsula with a cluster of islands with most of them connected by bridges to each other and the peninsula. My relatives live on Lolland, the fourth largest island in the southern portion of Denmark and across the channel from Germany. Lolland is about a 1.5 hour drive from Copenhagen and a 45 minute ferry ride to Germany. Lolland is also known as the "pancake island" because of its flatness: the highest peak of the entire island is 25 m (82 ft) high. Lolland used to flood but now there is a dike around the island to prevent the flooding. The largest town of Lolland is Nakskov, with 15,500 residents. Other main towns are Maribo (6,000 residents), which hosts the seat of the Diocese of Lolland and Sakskobing (3,500 residents), and Rodby (2,500 residents). My relatives live mostly in and around Holeby which is a few miles from Maribo. My Grandfather was born in a small town, Herritslev.

Lolland’s economy is mostly farming with the main crop being sugar beets. There is also a huge sugar producing factory in Nykobing-Falster. At one time, before the bridges, Lolland had a ship building yard in Nakskov but that has long been closed. In its place is a factory that builds the huge power producing windmills you can see all over Europe.

What to see in Lolland:

Lolland is a very rural area and with that it is very laid back and beautiful. It is un-crowded but there is also a lot to do and see. You can see the many sites, including castles and estates, go to the beautiful beaches or fish on the channel between Lolland and Falster. I went fishing and was glad I didn’t catch anything. The fish were very ugly with big sharp teeth. My cousin wanted to catch some for dinner. I’m glad we ended up with beef.

Visiting Nysted is like going back in time. Nysted is a small city with a beautiful port on the southeastern side of the island. The town and harbor originated during the Middle Ages near Aalholm Castle. The town was a natural crossroads for commerce and traffic on account of its having the only natural harbor on the south coast of Lolland. At the port there is a memorial to an American bomber crew that was shot down during World War II. The propeller is part of the memorial with the names of all the service men on the plane. The people of Nysted found the bodies of the crew and returned their dog tags to their families.

Nakskov is in the inner part of the Western inlet of Lolland, which remains one of the agriculturally richest of the Danish islands. The area was settled during the Neolithic period and from this period the area has been continuously inhabited. The town received trade privileges in 1266, during the reign of king Eric 5 of Denmark. Once the export center of the rich farmland region of western Lolland, Nakskov thrived on trade, commerce and industry. Nakskov was once known for ship building but now is known for manufacturing wind mills that produce power. Go to the coast and enjoy the beautiful scenery. There is also an old Russian submarine you can tour. A couple guys wrote a letter to the Russian government asking if they had any old submarines they could have. Surprisingly the Russians said if you can get it back to Denmark you can have it. They towed it back and started tours.  

 

Maribo is the county seat of Lolland. The church in Maribo is worth visiting. Knuthenborg Safari Park is just outside of the city and is a must see. You can drive your car all over the park and view the animals at your own pace.

I would go to Sakskobing just to see the water tower. There is also a nice shopping area downtown.

Rodby is a port city on the south of Lolland facing Germany on the other side of the straight. This is where you can catch the ferry both on foot and by car to Puttgarden, Germany. I have used the ferry many times to get to my relatives in Holeby when traveling from Germany. Take the relaxing ride to Puttgarden and from there you can catch a taxi to the city of Berg for shopping, eating and drinking.

Lollandia is a resort west of Rodby on the coast. At Lollandia you can rent rooms and cabins. There is an 18 hole golf course and a very nice beach. Also, you will find an indoor water park and a bowling alley.

Pops’ Copenhagen Travel Guide – Part 8, Getting Around

Depending on your fitness level there are many ways to see Copenhagen. As I have said before, Copenhagen is easy to see by walking. If you divide the city into sections from the city center walking should not be a problem. See the Amalienborg Palace, Strøget, Nyhavn, Canal Tour, Frederiks Church and over to the Little Mermaid in one day and visit Tivoli, Rosenborg Castle, the Kings Park and the Lakes on another day. That will leave you other days to trek outside the city to see the other castles, the Viking Museum and maybe a trip to Malmo, Sweden.

 

 

There is another option that could be fun. Throughout Copenhagen are bike stands where you can pick up bikes to ride around the city and drop off at any other bike stand. The bikes are locked and all it takes is a 20 Kroner coin to unlock the bike. You have the bike for as long as you want. When you are done with the bike, find another bike stand and lock the bike. When you lock the bike the lock will spit out a 20 Kroner coin. So the bike rental is free! Copenhagen is a biking city with bike lanes everywhere you go. Most people that live and work in Copenhagen don’t own a car so they bike to work. When the weather is nice and you are up to it this is a great option for you to see the city.

As always you can always find a taxi or take the hop-on/hop-off bus. Both are great options for you to see the city when your mobility is limited.

A side note: This isn’t related to travel but grocery stores have the same concept for shopping carts as the free bike rental. Shopping carts are all locked together. When you need one it takes a 20 Kroner coin to unlock. When you bring the cart back you get your 20 Kroner back. You don’t see shopping carts scattered all over the parking lot or down the street. Why can’t we do that here?

Pops’ Copenhagen Travel Guide – Part 7, Places to Eat

Copenhagen has a lot of options when it comes to food.

 

Noma is the top rated restaurant in the world. Reservations should be made months in advance and it is very expensive. All the food comes locally with some of it gathered in fields and along the beaches of Denmark. If you can’t afford Noma don’t worry, there are plenty of great places to eat in Copenhagen. A Hereford Beefstouw is a Danish steakhouse chain. There is one at the entrance of Tivoli that I have eaten at. The food is very good and it is centrally located. Nyhavn has a lot of restaurants and bars along the canal. In and around Strøget are many restaurants to choose from offering anything from fast food to nice sit down restaurants. Stroll around and every once a while an alley will open up into a square that you wouldn’t think existed and in the square you will find many places to eat. If you face Tivoli and go to the right there is a Hard Rock Café. I have found that when you are traveling abroad and crave American food the Hard Rock Café food tastes the same everywhere. Real ketchup is hard to find, especially in Asia. The Hard Rock will have American branded ketchup for your burger. Also, to the right of Tivoli and a few blocks away is an artistic area of Copenhagen with a great restaurant for burgers. I always have the bacon cheeseburger. You can sit outside and if there is a chill you can ask for a blanket. Sorry, I can’t remember the name but if you want I can find out from my cousin.

My son’s favorite places to eat though are the hotdog wagons. They are scattered throughout the city and each has its own spot based on seniority. His favorite food is the French Hotdog. It is a hotdog bun with one end cut off and hollow inside. They will put mustard, ketchup, etc.  inside and then slide the hotdog inside the bun. I have to admit it is very good and don’t know why I can’t find one here. 

You won’t have a problem finding a good place to eat in Copenhagen.

Pops’ Copenhagen Travel Guide – Part 6, Other City Sites

 

 

The Little Mermaid sits in the harbor just a few yards off shore. You can drive to it and there is ample parking or you can walk to it along the harbor. If you walk it is not far from the Amalienborg Palace. From the palace walk to the harbor and turn left. On the way there is the Maritime Museum and the Gefion Fountain. It’s a nice walk along the harbor. You can also see the Little Mermaid from the water side by taking the Canal Tour.  

Strøget is a car free zone in Copenhagen. This popular tourist attraction in the center of town is the longest pedestrian shopping area in Europe. The street is bound on the west by The City Square, the central town square by Copenhagen City Hall, and on the east by Kongens Nytorv, ("The King's New Square"), another large square at the other end. But the Strøget area is actually a collection of streets that spread out from this central thoroughfare. Many of the city's most famous and expensive stores, such as Illums Bolighus, Magasin du Nord, the Royal Copenhagen Porcelain Factory, and chain stores, are located along the strip. There are also a multitude of souvenir shops and fast food outlets. Strøget was created in November 1962 when cars were beginning to dominate Copenhagen's old central streets. Strøget is located between Tivoli and the palace.

 

The Gefion Fountain is a large fountain on the harbor front in Copenhagen. It features a large-scale group of animal figures being driven by the legendary Norse goddess, Gelfun. It is located in Norde Toldbod. If you are at the Amalienborg Palace and walk to the harbor hang a left and it is on the way to the Little Mermaid. It is the largest monument in Copenhagen and used as a wishing well. This is a very cool fountain with the water splashing around the chariot and animals.

The Lakes in Copenhagen are a row of three rectangular lakes curving around the western margin of the Citer Center, forming one of the oldest and most distinctive features of the city's topography. The paths around them are popular with strollers, bikers, and runners. The lakes are very peaceful and beautiful with the swans swimming around. This is a chance to take a relaxing walk either day or night.

 

 Church of Our Savior is unique as you can climb to the top of the steeple but the steps spiral around the outside of the steeple. As you go higher the steps get narrower. At the top you will get some amazing views of Copenhagen.

 

Frederiks Church or The Marble Church for its architecture is an Evangelical Lutheran church located just west of Amalienborg Palace. Frederick's Church has the largest church dome in Scandinavia with a span of 31m, though there are three larger domes elsewhere in Europe. The dome rests on 12 columns. The inspiration was probably St. Peters Basilica in Rome. When you are visiting the church the Amalienborg Palace is right across the street and you should see both at the same time.

Christiania, also known as Freetown Christiania is a self-proclaimed autonomous neighborhood of about 850 residents, covering 34 hectares (84 acres) in the borough of Christianhavn in Copenhagen. Civic authorities in Copenhagen regard Christiania as a large commune, but the area has a unique status in that it is regulated by a special law, the Christiania Law of 1989 which transfers parts of the supervision of the area from the Copenhagen to the state. It was closed by residents in April 2011, whilst discussions continued with the Danish government as to its future, but is now open again. Christiania has been a source of controversy since its creation in a squatted military area in 1971. Its cannabis trade was tolerated by authorities until 2004. Since then, measures for normalizing the legal status of the community have led to conflicts, and negotiations are ongoing.

If you have time to go to the beach and want to go I have been to 2 beaches both ranked #1 and #2. Bellevue beach is about 10 km from the city center and is on the strait between Denmark and Sweden. You can see Sweden on the other side of the strait. It is a popular beach for the locals and is located in Klampenborg, a very expensive area around Copenhagen. It is a 700 meter long sandy beach with lawn areas. Amager Beach Park is a man-made beach and park between the airport and the bridge to Sweden. Sand was trucked in to make an island with one side facing out to the sea and the other side is a man-made lagoon that makes it safer for children. The park was founded in 1934 and in 2005 the 2 km-long (1.2 mi) artificial island was added. The island is separated from the original beach by a lagoon which is crossed by three bridges. The beach has two sections. The northern section has a natural beach environment with winding paths, broad sandy beaches and low dunes. The southern section offers a so-called city beach with a broad promenade and areas for ball play or picnicking. There is also a small marina and parking facilities at the southern end. The lagoon has low-water areas for children as well as a 1,000 m swimming course.

Here is my recommendation for a day walk in Copenhagen. Facing the main entrance to Tivoli, start walking to the left. There is a A Hereford Beefstouw which is a Danish steakhouse chain and is a very good option if you are in the mood for a steak. On the other side of the main entrance to Tivoli is a Hard Rock Café. Just past the steakhouse are some shops including amber shops. Take a look inside the shops. At the end of the street cross the street to enter a large square. The square always has activities going on. Cross the street on the other side and you will enter Strøget with its many shops. You will also find many street performers and artists. At the end of Strøget Nyhavn is a short walk away and you can have something to eat and drink or catch the canal tour. From Nyhavn walk to the harbor and turn left. There you can see Amalienborg Palace and Frederiks Church. Then continuing along the harbor you will see the Gelfion Fountain and the Little Mermaid. This is not a short walk, so plan on taking your time and plan on all day. Maybe taking the Canal Tour will give you a break from walking. If not there is always the bars and restaurants in Nyhavn.

Pops’ Copenhagen Travel Guide – Part 5, Museums

Here are some museums in Copenhagen that I have visited.

The National Museum is located in the center of the city and is housed in a building that used to be a royal residence. It is the largest museum of natural history in Denmark. The museum covers 14,000 years of Danish history from ice-age to present times. Like most public attractions in Denmark it is closed on Mondays.

 

Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek is an art museum in Copenhagen built around the art collection of Carl Jacobsen who was the son of the founder of the Carlsberg Brewery. The museum was founded in 1882. The word Glyptotek comes from the Greek root glyphein, to carve and theke, a storing-place. Primarily a sculpture museum as indicated by the name, the focal point of the museum is antique sculpture from the ancient cultures around the Mediterranean including Egypt, Rome and Greece, as well as more modern sculptures such as a collection of Rodin works which is considered the most important outside France. However, the museum is equally noted for its collection of painting that includes an extensive collection of French impressionists and Post impressionists as well as Danish Golden Age paintings. The French Collection includes works by painters such as Jacques-Louis David, Monet, Pissarro, Renoir, Degas and Cézanne, as well as those by Post-impressionists such as van Gogh, Toulouse-Lautrec and Bonnard. The museum's collection of Rodin sculptures is considered the most important collection of Rodin's sculptures outside France. The museum's collection also includes all the bronze sculptures of Degas, including the series of dancers. Numerous works by Norwegian-Danish sculptor Stephan Sinding are featured prominently in various sections of the museum. The museum is also closed on Mondays.

The Viking Ship Museum is located outside the city in Roskilde and is the Danish national museum for ships, seafaring and boatbuilding in the prehistoric and medieval period. Around the year 1070, five Viking ships were deliberately sunk at Skuldelev in Roskilde Fjord in order to block the most important fairway and to protect Roskilde from enemy attack from the sea. These ships, later known as the Skuldelev, were excavated in 1962. They turned out to be five different types of ships ranging from cargo ships to ships of war. The ships are not in as good condition as the ones at the Viking Museum in Oslo but is worth the trip. The Viking Ship Museum overlooks Roskilde Fjord and was built in 1969 especially to exhibit the five newly discovered ships.^[1] In the late 1990s excavations for an expansion of the museum uncovered a further 9 ships including the longest Viking warship ever discovered, at 36 meters. This is a living history museum and on one of the trips there they were building a Viking Ship using only tools of the time. That ship eventually sailed from Denmark to England. The museum is closed around the Christmas holiday.

If you are in Roskilde I would also walk up to the Roskilde Cathedral. This is a cathedral of the Lutheran Church of Denmark. The first Gothic cathedral to be built of brick, it encouraged the spread of the Brick Gothic style throughout Northern Europe. Constructed during the 12th and 13th centuries, the cathedral incorporates both Gothic and Romanesque architectural features in its design. Until the 20th century, it was Zealand's only cathedral. Its twin spires dominate the skyline of the town.

The cathedral has been the main burial site for Danish monarchs since the 15th century. As such, it has been significantly extended and altered over the centuries to accommodate a considerable number of burial chapels. The cathedral is a major tourist attraction, bringing in over 125,000 visitors annually. Since 1995, it has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A working church, it also hosts concerts throughout the year.

Pops’ Copenhagen Travel Guide – Part 4, Nyhavn

Nyhavn used to be the red light district of Copenhagen. This is where the sailors from the docks would hang out. It was full of seedy bars and ladies of the night. Now it is an area where people congregate, relax and just hang out. The colorful buildings along the canal are full of restaurants, bars, office space and residences. Nyhavn is beautiful all year round but I would recommend going there in the summer. In the summer all the bars and restaurants move outside and line up along the canal. What you get is a continuous bar that stretches for blocks. My cousin told me in the summer it was the longest continuous bar in the world. It may be true as it is very long. Nyhavn fills up during the day with people sitting at the tables and bars or just dangling their legs over the edge of the canal. It is a great place to meet, have a drink, something to eat and sit around and talk. When you go have a Tuborg or Carlsberg for me.

 

 

Nyhavn is also where the canal tours start. The canal tours are a great way to see Copenhagen from a different perspective. You will be able to see the Little Mermaid statue from the water side, the Royal Yacht, Opera House, Naval Yards, Stock Exchange, Holmens Church as well as many other famous sites. This is a must tour when in Copenhagen. There are many tour operators so I won’t recommend any one. You can buy your tickets at the beginning of Nyhavn.